Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children are reluctant to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to learn these tales and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
