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When curating a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning venues. But, tucked near the top among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The honour has made the family totally astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says a family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their small restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary honour.